Dress & Costume

[domynoe]

materials - all

canvas :: a coarse cloth made of flax or hemp

embroidery :: not a fabric, but highly prized and often decorated even the poorest of fabrics with peasant designs being quite simple while designs for the wealthy and royal being quite elaborate and often done in gold or silver thread

flannel :: a lightweight woolen fabric often used as undergarments, bandages, and wash rags

frieze :: a thick woolen cloth often used for outer garments

fur :: animal pelt, the lower classes used smaller animals and sheepskin or wolfskin, while the upper classes used other furs

leather :: animal hide

linen :: a cloth made from flax

serge :: a woolen fabric used for clothing, bed-covers, hangings, funeral drapes, shrouds, and so on



materials – lower classes

homespun or russet :: a coarse woolen clothe, most often reddish-brown in color

brocatelle :: a stiff decorating fabric with patterns in high relief that is supposed to imitate brocade



materials – middle classes, wealthy merchants, poorer nobility

black-work :: embroidery done in black silk

cambric :: a fine white linen

kersey :: a woolen cloth, often ribbed

lawn :: a finely woven linen; a fine sheer linen or cotton fabric of plain weave that is thinner than cambric

musterdevilliers :: a gray woolen cloth



materials – the rich (which can include the previous classes), nobles, royalty

brocade :: a tightly woven fabric with a raised pattern; originally with the pattern done in either gold or silver, but this changed over time; strictly reserved only for those who could afford it

calico :: a white cotton imported from India (for Alden purposes, from the Kharzhan Drakheir)

damask :: a silk fabric woven with various, often elaborate patterns and designs

fustian :: a type of scarlet cloth, lightweight, silky, bears a resemblance to velvet

gold and silver tissue :: a lightweight fabric with gold or silver threads woven into it

holland :: a very finely woven lawn material often used for shirts and undergarments; a cotton or linen fabric in plain weave usually heavily sized or glazed and used for window shades, bookbinding, and clothing

samite :: a silken clothe often woven with gold

satin :: fabric made of silk that is shiny on one side and matte on the other

taffeta :: a plain-woven glossy silk



materials – royalty only

camlet :: a medieval Asian fabric of silk or velvet and camel hair or angora wool creating a fine lustrous woolen

scarlet :: not the color, but a soft, draping fabric

silk :: an expensive cloth woven from silk threads in the orient (Tiroshen in Alden)



materials – other, misc, and modern

batiste :: a fine soft sheer fabric of plain weave made of various fibers

broadcloth :: a twilled napped woolen or worsted fabric with smooth lustrous face and dense texture; a fabric usually of cotton or silk made in plain and rib weaves with soft semigloss finish

challis :: a lightweight soft clothing fabric made of cotton, wool, or synthetic yarns

chambray :: a lightweight clothing fabric with colored warp and white filling yarns

charmeuse :: a fine semilustrous crepe in satin weave

chiffon :: a sheer fabric especially of silk

cotton :: a soft fabric made of a white fibrous substance composed of the hairs surrounding the seeds of various erect freely branching tropical (cotton) plants

crepe :: a light, crinkled fabric

crepe de chin :: a soft fine or sheer clothing crepe especially of silk

faille :: a somewhat shiny closely woven silk or cotton fabric characterized by slight ribs in the weft

flannelette :: a lightweight cotton flannel

fustian :: a strong cotton and linen fabric usually having a pile face and twill weave

gabardine :: a firm hard-finish durable fabric (as of wool or rayon) twilled with diagonal ribs on the right side

hairline :: a fabric with a textile design consisting of lengthwise or crosswise lines usually one thread wide

jacquard :: a fabric of intricate variegated weave or pattern

lace :: an openwork usually figured fabric made of thread or yarn and used for trimmings, household coverings, and entire garments

moleskin :: a heavy durable cotton fabric with a short thick velvety nap on one side

muslin :: a plain-woven sheer to coarse cotton fabric

oilcloth :: cloth treated with oil or paint and used for table and shelf coverings

organdy :: a very fine transparent muslin with a stiff finish

organza :: a sheer silk dress fabric

pongee :: a thin soft fabric of Chinese origin woven from raw silk; an imitation of this fabric in cotton

sateen :: a smooth durable lustrous fabric usually made of cotton in satin weave

tapestry :: a heavy hand-woven reversible textile used for hangings, curtains, and upholstery and characterized by complicated pictorial designs

tussah :: silk or silk fabric from the brownish fiber produced by larvae of some saturniid moths

velvet :: a clothing and upholstery fabric (as of silk or wool) characterized by a short soft dense warp pile



also: rayon, nylon, lycra,





colors – all

black :: eventually became the color worn by scholars, mourners, elderly, nuns and priests

blue :: all except dark blue

green :: all shades

red :: except the ones listed below

red-browns :: extremely popular

slate :: a gray blue

tawny :: a brownish-yellow that was popular

watchet :: a light yellowish green

white :: worn by all but preferred by the nobility and royalty

yellow



colors – wealthy, nobles

dark blue :: eventually became associated with scholars and apprentices

crimson :: a bright red

flame :: a bright red-orange

murrey :: deep purple red

scarlet :: originally reserved for royalty, eventually worn only by the nobility

siskin :: light greenish-yellow

tan :: light brown



colors – royalty only

gold cloth

purple

silver cloth







clothing – women

apron

barbe :: a pleated piece of linen similar to the barbette and widows, it was worn underneath the chin of widows and over the chin to denote a noblewoman

barbette :: a linen band that wrapped around the head, under the chin, usually pinned

butterfly headdress :: word at the back of the head, it was made of wire covered with fabric, and was draped with a fine gauzy veil that draped over the wearer's forehead and down her back

cap :: made of linen, often worn over frets or with barbettes or wimples

caul (also fret or crispenette) :: a coarse hair net made out of silk, gold, or silver; worn only by royalty and nobles

chaplet :: a padded roll worn on the head much like a hat, often bejeweled and embroidered; variations could be horn-shaped or heart-shaped to where it dipped low around the forehead of the wearer, some were extremely wide and high, most fashionably worn with the houppelande

cloak :: most fastened with a chord or brooch and the wealthy and nobles often lined their cloaks with fur

cote-hardie :: a gown cut tight to the hips and then fell in folds to the ground with a row of buttons down the front to fasten it

dagged or dagging :: scallops cut into the fabric for decorative purposes

diadem :: a crown or golden chaplet that denoted royalty

fillet :: a stiffened piece of linen molded into a wide headband worn like a hat often placed over the barbette or a veil

fitchets :: a hole cut into the cote-hardie that allowed the wearer access to their purse which was hung on the girdle

girdle :: a leather belt worn about the hips; the style and length varied according to the fashion of the day

gloves :: the wealthy and nobles had gloves lined with fur and some were scented with flower oils

headdress :: referred to a combination of a wimple and veil, or a fillet and barbette, or barbette and veil, or a cap and veil or barbette

hennin :: the high, pointed headdress associated with the middle ages, often with a sheer veil over it, or with a lirapipe attached to the point

hose :: fastened about the knee with a garter

houppelande :: a long gown that fell loose from the shoulders, belted at the waist, and often a high, tight collar

kirtle :: generic name for a dress

lirapipe :: a long streamer attached to a chaplet, hennin, or heart-shaped headdress

mantle :: a cloak worn indoors for state functions, attached to the dress with brooches or tied with chords

pelisse :: jacket-type covering often worn over a dress and sometimes for outdoors

purse :: a sack made of leather or clothe, drawn closed with a long cord or leather straps which were fastened to the girdle allowing the purse to hang to about mid-thigh

sideless surcoat :: an outer dress worn over a smock or kirtle with the sides left open and cut to the hip; the neck was square or round depending on the fashion; worn by the rich and often as a court dress or for state functions

sleeves :: due to rapidly changing fashions, these were made to come off so the owner could update the sleeves without throwing out the entire dress; women also often gave a sleeve as a token to a knight or lover

smock or undertunic :: a chemise or gown worn under a dress, sometimes fully concealed, sometimes with either the sleeves or skirt or both showing

supertunic :: a strip of material with a hole cut out for the head; sometimes with the sides sewn shut, sometimes with them left open; similar to the sideless surcoat worn by the rich and nobility

tippet :: a white piece of linen attached to the upper arm and worn to trail down to the floor as decoration

undertunic :: another name for the chemise or smock

veil :: long or short, depending on the fashion, often held in place by a circlet or pinned to the hair

widow :: a wimple worn over the chin with a series of pleats down the front

wimple :: worn to cover the throat and often tucked into the neckline of the dress, most often worn with a veil over it



clothing – men

braies or breeches :: pants with a drawstring waist; the lower classes wore looser breeches while the nobility wore more form-fitting; many had feet, some with leather on the bottom so they could be worn without shoes, others had loops to secure them in place

cap :: any small, usually brimless hat

chaperon :: similar to the chaplet, rolled up around the head and allowed to drape to one side; often worn with a coif

chaplet :: a padded roll worn on the head much like a hat, often bejeweled and embroidered; variations could be horn-shaped or heart-shaped to where it dipped low around the forehead of the wearer, some were extremely wide and high, most fashionably worn with the houppelande

cloak :: most fastened with a chord or brooch and the wealthy and nobles often lined their cloaks with fur

codpiece :: when hose were long and met and were tied at the waist, a small triangular piece covered the joining

coif :: similar to a barbette, made of white linen and covering the head and ears; black coifs were worn by elders and scholars

cote-hardie :: worn over the gypon and fastened in the front with buttons, length varied with fashion

cowl or hood :: covered the head of the wearer during bad weather and often came to a point that draped down the wearers back

dagged or dagging :: scallops cut into the fabric for decorative purposes

doublet :: a tailored tunic worn over the undertunic; the front was often stuffed to make the wearer appear more broad shouldered

folly-bells :: small bells hung by little chains from the girdle

garnache :: a supertunic that was allowed to drape over the shoulder to below the elbow and could be either open at the sides or sewn up

gorget :: the cape part of a hood or cowl that covered the shoulders

girdle :: a leather belt worn about the hips; the style and length varied according to the fashion of the day

gloves :: the wealthy and nobles had gloves lined with fur and often wore them indoors as well as out

gypon :: another name for the doublet

hose :: fastened about the knee with a garter or cross-gartered to the shin

houppelande :: a long gown that fell loose from the shoulders, belted at the waist, and with a high, tight collar

jerkin :: identical to the houppelande except the collar was cut low into a circle or square

lirapipe :: the name for the hood when the point was left extended to dangle down the back to the wearer's feet, it was sometimes coiled around the neck

pallium :: a toga-like garment draped over the shoulders and hips

phyrgian cap :: a cone-shaped cap made of wool or linen with a brim that was folded u[

purse :: a sack made of leather or clothe, drawn closed with a long cord or leather straps which were fastened to the girdle allowing the purse to hang to about mid-thigh

supertunic :: a strip of material with a hole cut out for the head; sometimes with the sides sewn shut, sometimes with them left open; similar to the sideless surcoat worn by the rich and nobility

surcoat :: an outer coat or cloak; specifically : a tunic worn over armor

tippet :: a white piece of linen attached to the upper arm and worn to trail down to the floor as decoration

tunic :: a typical shirt, the style and cut of which varied according to fashion

undertunic :: another name for the chemise or smock





clothing – oriental

cheongsam :: an oriental dress with a slit skirt and a mandarin collar

happi coats :: happi coat refers to a length of clothing which is usually above the knee or shorter and have straight sleeves. happi coats are worn as over coats for parties and festivals, as short mid-length robes to lounge around the home and also makes a wonderful beach, bath or pool robe

kaftan :: a usually cotton or silk ankle-length garment with long sleeves that is common throughout the Levant

kimono :: a long robe with wide sleeves traditionally worn with a broad sash as an outer garment by the Japanese

sari :: a garment of southern Asian women that consists of several yards of lightweight cloth draped so that one end forms a skirt and the other a head or shoulder covering

sarong :: a loose garment made of a long strip of cloth wrapped around the body that is worn as a skirt or dress by men and women chiefly of the Malay Archipelago and the Pacific islands





other – pantaloons, overskirt